Can't make audio CD containing MP3s

[Rhino]

I'm trying to do something that's supposed to be fairly simple but it's not
working. Can anyone suggest what I'm doing wrong?

I am trying to make a CD containing MP3s that will play in my car CD player
and the CD player in my home stereo.

The MP3s live on my hard drive and play fine in iTunes. My media is a CD-RW
from Staples. I've tried burning the CD using the Windows Media Player
(Version 11) and all seemed to go well during the burning except that the
resulting CD will play on my computer but not in my home or car stereos.

I had the same result when I burned the CD via Express Burn: no errors
during the burning but the disk wouldn't play in the home or car stereos.

Both the car and home stereos are fairly old; the car stereo is the original
Honda player in my 2001 Accord. The home stereo is somewhat older.

I thought perhaps the CD-RW I was using was defective in some way, even
though it is brand new so I tried burning the disk again with Express Burn
using another new CD-RW but the new CD-RW had the same problem. I also tried
making the CD-RW with Windows Media Player on the newer CD-RW but got "no
disc" from my Sony home stereo CD player when I tried to play it.

I'm not a computer newbie by a long shot, although I've never had much to do
with burning music CDs and have never tried to make an audio CD containing
MP3s before. I'm guessing that I'm making some kind of fundamental
conceptual mistake....

Anyway, can someone confirm that Windows Media Player 11 and Express Burn
are appropriate programs to use to make an audio CD consisting of MP3s that
will play in an older car stereo? If they are, then perhaps you can help me
figure out what mistake I am making....

--
Rhino

[unknown]

On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 12:33:45 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino
I'm trying to do something that's supposed to be fairly simple but it's not
working. Can anyone suggest what I'm doing wrong?
I am trying to make a CD containing MP3s that will play in my car CD player
and the CD player in my home stereo.
The MP3s live on my hard drive and play fine in iTunes. My media is a CD-RW
from Staples.

Try using CD-R rather than CD-RW media. CDRs have lower reflectivity
than stamped CDs, and CDRWs have even lower reflectivity than CDRs.
The lower reflectivity can cause problems with CD players.

[Rhino]

Post by unknown
On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 12:33:45 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino
I'm trying to do something that's supposed to be fairly simple but it's not
working. Can anyone suggest what I'm doing wrong?
I am trying to make a CD containing MP3s that will play in my car CD player
and the CD player in my home stereo.
The MP3s live on my hard drive and play fine in iTunes. My media is a CD-RW
from Staples.

Try using CD-R rather than CD-RW media. CDRs have lower reflectivity
than stamped CDs, and CDRWs have even lower reflectivity than CDRs.
The lower reflectivity can cause problems with CD players.

I will give it a try on a CD-R just to see if it makes a difference and I'll
report back here with the result.

But I really want to be able to write onto CD-RWs if I can. I have a bunch
of MP3s that I really want to be able to play in the car without buying an
expensive new car stereo. I'd like to be able to put a bunch of MP3s on a
CD-RW, play it for a couple of weeks, then erase it and put different music
on it for the next few weeks, etc. so that I get a good variety of music
without having to buy (and store) a whole bunch of permanent CDs. If you
have any suggestions that would help me accomplish that, I'd love to hear
them.


--
Rhino

[unknown]

On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 16:49:59 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino
I'd like to be able to put a bunch of MP3s on a
CD-RW, play it for a couple of weeks, then erase it and put different music
on it for the next few weeks, etc.

Wait, are you burning data CDs or audio CDs? They're two different
formats. Many, possibly most, CD players won't know what to do with a
disk containing Mp3 files.

[Rhino]

Post by unknown
On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 16:49:59 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino
I'd like to be able to put a bunch of MP3s on a
CD-RW, play it for a couple of weeks, then erase it and put different music
on it for the next few weeks, etc.

Wait, are you burning data CDs or audio CDs? They're two different
formats. Many, possibly most, CD players won't know what to do with a
disk containing Mp3 files.

When I burned the CD-RW with Windows Media Player, I simply clicked on "Burn
CD" and there was no choice between making an audio CD or a data CD; I
assume it made an audio CD. When I burned the CD-RW with Express Burn, I
wasn't sure if I should make an audio CD or a data CD but it seemed very
unlikely to me that a 10 year old car stereo would have any idea what to do
with a data CD so I chose audio CD. As I've said before, those failed to
play in either the home stereo or the car stereo.

After reading your advice to try a CD-R instead of a CD-RW, I tried burning
the CD again in Windows Media Player but it didn't like the blank disc for
some reason and spit it out. I'm not sure why and am rather curious about
that. But when I burned it as an audio CD with Express Burn, everything
seemed to go fine. Much to my surprise, that CD-R plays fine in both my home
stereo and the car stereo!

So, I'm not sure why Windows Media Player had a problem with it but Express
Burn did fine with it. It looks like your theory about the reflectivity may
be on the mark.

I'd still like to burn CD-RWs though so that I can erase the music regularly
and replace it with other things.

Do you see any way that I could make that happen?

--
Rhino

[j***@anywhere33.com]

On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 20:09:39 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino

Post by unknown
On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 16:49:59 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino
I'd like to be able to put a bunch of MP3s on a
CD-RW, play it for a couple of weeks, then erase it and put different music
on it for the next few weeks, etc.

Wait, are you burning data CDs or audio CDs? They're two different
formats. Many, possibly most, CD players won't know what to do with a
disk containing Mp3 files.

When I burned the CD-RW with Windows Media Player, I simply clicked on "Burn
CD" and there was no choice between making an audio CD or a data CD; I
assume it made an audio CD. When I burned the CD-RW with Express Burn, I
wasn't sure if I should make an audio CD or a data CD but it seemed very
unlikely to me that a 10 year old car stereo would have any idea what to do
with a data CD so I chose audio CD. As I've said before, those failed to
play in either the home stereo or the car stereo.
After reading your advice to try a CD-R instead of a CD-RW, I tried burning
the CD again in Windows Media Player but it didn't like the blank disc for
some reason and spit it out. I'm not sure why and am rather curious about
that. But when I burned it as an audio CD with Express Burn, everything
seemed to go fine. Much to my surprise, that CD-R plays fine in both my home
stereo and the car stereo!
So, I'm not sure why Windows Media Player had a problem with it but Express
Burn did fine with it. It looks like your theory about the reflectivity may
be on the mark.
I'd still like to burn CD-RWs though so that I can erase the music regularly
and replace it with other things.
Do you see any way that I could make that happen?

I use nothing but CD-RWs and I have never had a problem.

I use WMP to burn them.

You have a problem with something else besides WMP or the type of CD
used. Maybe your WMP install is bad?

Oh, yeah, I have over 30,000 pieces of music on my comp, so I do know
what I'm speaking of. As for guessing at the cause, try reading the
instructions again for WMP - even though you think you already know
how to burn a CD. I use the simple menu BURN | AUDIO CD.

[unknown]

Post by j***@anywhere33.com

Post by Rhino
Do you see any way that I could make that happen?

I use nothing but CD-RWs and I have never had a problem.

Are you using the same CD players he's using? And the same burner?
And the same media?

Post by j***@anywhere33.com
I use WMP to burn them.

The "burn quality" is a factor, and that has to do with the burner
and burner/media compatibility, not the software.

Post by j***@anywhere33.com
You have a problem with something else besides WMP or the type of CD
used. Maybe your WMP install is bad?

Something's going on there, but the type of CD media, the burner
itself, and the reader can *definitely* be factors in the
readability/playability of a burned CD. What I said about burned CDs
having lower reflectivity, and CDRW having lower reflectivity than
CDR, is a fact, and it's also a fact that that lower reflectivity
causes problems for some CD players.

[Rhino]

Post by unknown

Post by j***@anywhere33.com

Post by Rhino
Do you see any way that I could make that happen?

I use nothing but CD-RWs and I have never had a problem.

Are you using the same CD players he's using? And the same burner?
And the same media?

Post by j***@anywhere33.com
I use WMP to burn them.

The "burn quality" is a factor, and that has to do with the burner
and burner/media compatibility, not the software.

Post by j***@anywhere33.com
You have a problem with something else besides WMP or the type of CD
used. Maybe your WMP install is bad?

Something's going on there, but the type of CD media, the burner
itself, and the reader can *definitely* be factors in the
readability/playability of a burned CD. What I said about burned CDs
having lower reflectivity, and CDRW having lower reflectivity than
CDR, is a fact, and it's also a fact that that lower reflectivity
causes problems for some CD players.

So maybe the best move would be to try a different brand of media? It's a
LiteOn burner - model DH-20A4H - so perhaps the website will indicate brands
of CD-RWs that work well with it. (And then maybe I can actually find one of
those brands in the stores....)

The other alternative would be a different burner, which wouldn't be
completely crazy either. I've never been able to get the DMA to work on this
burner although I've got a question in to LiteOn about that; maybe they'll
have a solution. Burners are pretty cheap these days....

Are there any CD/DVD burners that have a particularly good reputation and
are also affordable and work with most of the major brands of media?

--
Rhino

[unknown]

On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 00:03:45 -0400, "Rhino"
<***@example.com> wrote:

Once upon a time I was kinda up-to-date on what was going on with CD
media/burners. That was back when it was constantly evolving with
higher burn speeds, different dyes being used by different
manufacturers, etc. Things have stabilized now, at least as far as
burn speeds go, and it's a technology that's looking at End Of Life
eyeball to eyeball. And when it got to the point where it all "just
worked" for me, I stopped paying attention. Burner/media compatibility
used to be *very* important. It probably isn't now. But I'd bet that
there are *lots* of crappy burners on the market now.

Post by Rhino
So maybe the best move would be to try a different brand of media?

For CDRW? Dunno, maybe. I'd guess not, there's no way around the
lower reflectivity.

Post by Rhino
It's a
LiteOn burner - model DH-20A4H - so perhaps the website will indicate brands
of CD-RWs that work well with it.

It might, but I'd guess that media is so standardized these days
that you won't find info like that. Liteon had a *very* good
reputation back when I was paying attention. I had one, and they'd
regularly update the firmware to accomodate the new media that the
manufacturers were coming out with.

Post by Rhino
(And then maybe I can actually find one of
those brands in the stores....)

That *is* a bit tricky. Manufacturers generally don't put their
brand on media, and brands generally buy from several manufacturers.
But stay away from Memorex. I really do believe that they buy the
dregs that didn't meet the specs of other brands.

Post by Rhino
The other alternative would be a different burner, which wouldn't be
completely crazy either. I've never been able to get the DMA to work on this
burner although I've got a question in to LiteOn about that; maybe they'll
have a solution. Burners are pretty cheap these days....

Not having DMA could kinda suck. But not like in the old days where
if the burner had a "buffer underrun" it would present you with a
coaster. ;-)

Post by Rhino
Are there any CD/DVD burners that have a particularly good reputation and
are also affordable and work with most of the major brands of media?

Based on what I know from years ago, I would say Liteon. ;-)

[Rhino]

Post by unknown
On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 00:03:45 -0400, "Rhino"
Once upon a time I was kinda up-to-date on what was going on with CD
media/burners. That was back when it was constantly evolving with
higher burn speeds, different dyes being used by different
manufacturers, etc. Things have stabilized now, at least as far as
burn speeds go, and it's a technology that's looking at End Of Life
eyeball to eyeball. And when it got to the point where it all "just
worked" for me, I stopped paying attention. Burner/media compatibility
used to be *very* important. It probably isn't now. But I'd bet that
there are *lots* of crappy burners on the market now.

Post by Rhino
So maybe the best move would be to try a different brand of media?

For CDRW? Dunno, maybe. I'd guess not, there's no way around the
lower reflectivity.

Post by Rhino
It's a
LiteOn burner - model DH-20A4H - so perhaps the website will indicate brands
of CD-RWs that work well with it.

It might, but I'd guess that media is so standardized these days
that you won't find info like that. Liteon had a *very* good
reputation back when I was paying attention. I had one, and they'd
regularly update the firmware to accomodate the new media that the
manufacturers were coming out with.

I dug up the manual for the burner and it specifies recommended media. For
CD-RW, it breaks them into three categories:
- low speed: CMC, Daxon, Gigastorage, Infordisc, LeadData, MCC, Princo,
Prodisc, Ricoh, Ritek
- high speed: CMC, Daxon, Fornet, Gigastorage, InfoDisc, LeadData, MCC,
NanYa, Princo, Prodisc, Ricoh, Ritek
- ultra speed: CMC, Daxon, Infodisc, Mitsubishi, Prodisc, Ritek

Of course they don't bother to clarify what they mean by "low speed", "high
speed", or "ultra speed". I assume this has something to do with burning
speeds, which are 1X, 2X, and 4X in my case. You don't happen to know what
they mean by low, high or ultra speed do you? Perhaps its a standard
industry term?

Also, they play the Cover Your Ass game by saying that all of their
recommendations are subject to change without notice, just in case one of
those manufacturers starts generating large quantities of crap.

Post by unknown

Post by Rhino
(And then maybe I can actually find one of
those brands in the stores....)

That *is* a bit tricky. Manufacturers generally don't put their
brand on media, and brands generally buy from several manufacturers.
But stay away from Memorex. I really do believe that they buy the
dregs that didn't meet the specs of other brands.

I don't remember seeing ANY of the different recommended brands listed above
in my local stores but I could look around; maybe I'll get lucky. But it
seems like a crapshoot. After all, aren't most of the house brands that you
buy at places like Staples actually made by a major manufacturer and the
store then just puts its house brand on it? So maybe the Staples CD-RWs I
have _are_ one of the recommended brands for this drive. Or not. The stores,
of course, are sworn not to tell you what brand you are really buying....

For what it's worth, I mostly use Memorex media in the burner - I mostly
burn DVDs - and I've had very good luck with them. You may be right about
their overall quality but I don't have any bad experiences with them.

Post by unknown

Post by Rhino
The other alternative would be a different burner, which wouldn't be
completely crazy either. I've never been able to get the DMA to work on this
burner although I've got a question in to LiteOn about that; maybe they'll
have a solution. Burners are pretty cheap these days....

Not having DMA could kinda suck. But not like in the old days where
if the burner had a "buffer underrun" it would present you with a
coaster. ;-)

Post by Rhino
Are there any CD/DVD burners that have a particularly good reputation and
are also affordable and work with most of the major brands of media?

Based on what I know from years ago, I would say Liteon. ;-)

So I'm using one of the best-regarded burners, appropriate software and the
right techniques but my CD-RWs are still duds and no one can actually give
me an actionable plan for getting better results? Darn! Some days, you just
can't win....

Maybe I'll just have to burn CD-Rs then.

--
Rhino

[unknown]

On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 09:26:51 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino

Post by unknown
That *is* a bit tricky. Manufacturers generally don't put their
brand on media, and brands generally buy from several manufacturers.
But stay away from Memorex. I really do believe that they buy the
dregs that didn't meet the specs of other brands.

I don't remember seeing ANY of the different recommended brands listed above
in my local stores but I could look around; maybe I'll get lucky. But it
seems like a crapshoot. After all, aren't most of the house brands that you
buy at places like Staples actually made by a major manufacturer and the
store then just puts its house brand on it?

Bingo. That's what I was talking about above.

Post by Rhino
So maybe the Staples CD-RWs I
have _are_ one of the recommended brands for this drive. Or not.

I would guess that they probably are. You should have software that
will tell you the manufacturer (CD info, something like that). But,
you can't tell until you get them home. Well, that will tell you who
made the die used to press the disks, but not necessarily who made the
disk. But that's the best you can do.

Post by Rhino
The stores,
of course, are sworn not to tell you what brand you are really buying....

I doubt that that's true. But there's really no way of knowing
unless you were involved in buying the disks from the manufacturer (or
a middelman). Even then, I remember buying a spindle from a major
brand, and half were from one manufacturer, and half from another.

[Kirk Bubul]

On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 18:09:28 -0400, Noik wrote:
- Snip -

Post by unknown

Post by Rhino
The stores,
of course, are sworn not to tell you what brand you are really buying....

I doubt that that's true. But there's really no way of knowing
unless you were involved in buying the disks from the manufacturer (or
a middelman). Even then, I remember buying a spindle from a major
brand, and half were from one manufacturer, and half from another.

I order mine from SuperMediaStore.com. Generally free shipping. And
they promise that their Taiyo Yuden disks are genuine. I've ordered
both CDRs and DVDs from them without problems.

[smh]

... I've never been able to get the DMA to work on this
burner although I've got a question in to LiteOn about that; maybe they'll
have a solution. Burners are pretty cheap these days....

You need to fix the dma. Here's how with winxp (and I believe similarly
with other Windows):

To enable DMA mode using the Device Manager

1.Open Device Manager.
2.Double-click IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers to display the list of
controllers and channels.
3.Right-click the icon for the channel to which the device is
connected,
select Properties, and then click the Advanced Settings tab.

4.In the Current Transfer Mode drop-down box, select DMA if
Available if the current setting is "PIO Only."

If the drop-down box already shows "DMA if Available" but the
current
transfer mode is PIO, then the user must toggle the settings. That
is:

Change the selection from "DMA if available" to PIO only, and
click OK.

Then repeat the steps above to change the selection to DMA if
Available.

[HumBug!]

On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 20:09:39 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino

Post by unknown
On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 16:49:59 -0400, "Rhino"

Post by Rhino
I'd like to be able to put a bunch of MP3s on a
CD-RW, play it for a couple of weeks, then erase it and put different music
on it for the next few weeks, etc.

Wait, are you burning data CDs or audio CDs? They're two different
formats. Many, possibly most, CD players won't know what to do with a
disk containing Mp3 files.

When I burned the CD-RW with Windows Media Player, I simply clicked on "Burn
CD" and there was no choice between making an audio CD or a data CD; I
assume it made an audio CD. When I burned the CD-RW with Express Burn, I
wasn't sure if I should make an audio CD or a data CD but it seemed very
unlikely to me that a 10 year old car stereo would have any idea what to do
with a data CD so I chose audio CD. As I've said before, those failed to
play in either the home stereo or the car stereo.

I better burning program might help.

With Nero, you can get the 'original', and 'copyright' flags
that SOME players seem to need.

[smh]

Noik wrote:
Good to see you.

Remember this post of yours? This was invaluable in putting a closure to
Mikey.

=====================================================
Mike Richter's Cockamamie Mumbo Jumbo on C1/C2 Errors
=====================================================

=============================================
From: Noik
Date: 8/13/05

'

Are you using the Plextor 1210S to measure errors?
If so then I'm not surprised that you don't see any C1 errors
because it can't report them.

I thought I'd try Mike's advice so I measured a known bad disc in a
Plextor PX712 drive (which supports C1 and C2 error reporting) with
the latest version of CDSpeed (4.01). While CDSpeed appeared to give
the right C2 error information it told me that I had no C1 errors.
This is wrong - if I'm seeing C2 errors then there MUST,
by definition, be C1 errors on the disc - in fact,

< < < < every disc will have a few C1 errors.

You are assuming a correlation between C1 and C2 errors
which is stronger than reality.
I've added a CDSpeed error display for a portion of a disc known to be
bad to the home page on the CD-R side of my WWW site. It shows quite a
spectacular array of C2 errors - and no C1s at all.

[Plextor 1210S does not report C1 errors.]
[CD Speed does not support Plextors.]

They are different measures and while they do have a gross
correlation, it is not the sort you are expecting.

I still feel that C1 and C2 errors are substantially different.

I think that a C2 error is a C1 error(s) that couldn't be corrected
with the C1 error correction capabilities. They're not independant,
they're basically the same thing except for which level of error
correction can correct the error. You're using a program that just
doesn't report C1 errors, as indicated by the fact that the "C1 error"
part in your screenshot is greyed out.

Now I know why you can create disks that have no C1 errors.
=============================================

----------------------------------------------
Mikey, you are the Slimiest Lying Friggin SOB!
----------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------
Mike Richter, were you born with
"Scam Artist" emblazoned on your face?
--------------------------------------

[Tony]

Go to the nearest warez site and get some real software. Burn the cd in disk at
once mode. Never use memorex or imation cd's. Problem solved.

Post by Rhino
I'm trying to do something that's supposed to be fairly simple but it's not
working. Can anyone suggest what I'm doing wrong?
I am trying to make a CD containing MP3s that will play in my car CD player
and the CD player in my home stereo.
The MP3s live on my hard drive and play fine in iTunes. My media is a CD-RW
from Staples. I've tried burning the CD using the Windows Media Player
(Version 11) and all seemed to go well during the burning except that the
resulting CD will play on my computer but not in my home or car stereos.
I had the same result when I burned the CD via Express Burn: no errors
during the burning but the disk wouldn't play in the home or car stereos.
Both the car and home stereos are fairly old; the car stereo is the original
Honda player in my 2001 Accord. The home stereo is somewhat older.
I thought perhaps the CD-RW I was using was defective in some way, even
though it is brand new so I tried burning the disk again with Express Burn
using another new CD-RW but the new CD-RW had the same problem. I also tried
making the CD-RW with Windows Media Player on the newer CD-RW but got "no
disc" from my Sony home stereo CD player when I tried to play it.
I'm not a computer newbie by a long shot, although I've never had much to do
with burning music CDs and have never tried to make an audio CD containing
MP3s before. I'm guessing that I'm making some kind of fundamental
conceptual mistake....
Anyway, can someone confirm that Windows Media Player 11 and Express Burn
are appropriate programs to use to make an audio CD consisting of MP3s that
will play in an older car stereo? If they are, then perhaps you can help me
figure out what mistake I am making....
--
Rhino

--
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